Florence Files
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Though specifically Elizabethan,
this serves to show the many,
many layers of Renaissance Dressing. From Queen Elizabeth’s
Wardrobe Unlock’d (p 111), in an account by Peter Erondell,
on
the dressing of Lady Ri-Mellaine:
Call my Taylor to bring my gowne, ........ Shall I hve no
Vardingale?... Do you not see that I want my buske" What has become
of the buske-poynt? ....... The final touches are by neckwear, purse,
clean handkerchief, gloves (it is too warm for a muff), mask, fan,
‘chayne of pearls’, and girdle with these items in a case
hanging
from it: scissors, pincers, pen-knife, a knife to close letters,
bodkin, ear-picker, and seal. Then as the ruff is too soiled, a
rebato of cutworke edged .
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Calzoni: (Drawers or breeches)
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Kat's Drawers.htm
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Camicia -
(chemise/smock)
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What Lies Beneath- Florence
Underpinnings of the 16thC.
Extant
Underpinnings of Florence and Tuscany examples
Florence
underpinnings
- 1540 getting dressed
Handmade
Linen Camicia
Pomegranite Camicia
Florentine camicia based on extant example in Prato (Tuscany)
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Spallini: Nets covering shoulders.
Georgiera: Partlet
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16thC Florentine Partlet
Documentation (sewing/embroidery)
Florence
Underthings: Giorgeria Research
Kat's Gold and Silk Giorgeria
Maria
Medici partlet
Kat's silk
embroidered Pomegranite Giorgeria
Kat's
Velvet partlet for Rapier.
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Calze: stockings
Pianelle:
(night) slippers
Pantosole: *slippers, chopines,
Calandrelli -
wooden Pattens
Zoccoli: wooden platform shoes
(made from zocco - block of wood)*
Chopines.
Cinta/ girdle or
Cintolini*/Cinte
de gamba:
garters or
little girdles*/ garters
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Keeping
Yer Legges Warme
Kat's New
Stockings - new pattern
Calandrelli (Pattens) 15thC.
Kat's Zoccoli.htm
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Stays: Corset
/ breast taping,
Fasce da
stomaco:
stomach band -
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What Lies Beneath- Florence
Underpinnings of the 16thC.
Extant
Examples of 16th C Underpinnings of Tuscany
Maria d'Medici underbodies.htm
Mid 16thC Stays based on Extant Burial Stays
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Sontanna:
Petticoats,
later worn as gown
Falda: skirt & Underskirts
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Kat's Underskirt
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Gamurra/
Sottana
(underdress or
petticoat, sometimes worn as gown)
Veste:
gown with sleeves
(decorated) worn over petticoat or skirts.
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1550s
Century Sottana (red)
Eleanor d'
Toledo, *2005
Maria's
Toile for Gamurra *2005
Linen
Sottana with Period Contruction Techniques *2006
Pale
Sottana - period construction techniques*2007
Florentine
1540-1555 remade*2007
Maria
d'Cosimo (Medici) Veste/ overgown. *2005
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Baragoni
& Maniche:puff sleeves and sleeves (general)
Colletto:(leather)* jerkin
Guibbone: Doublet
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Florentine
Sleeves 1500-1550
**
Kat's Mid 16thC
Florentine Guibone *2007
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Makeup
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Scuffia,
Balzo:cawl
Headwear - hairtaping
with ribbons (redine)
Bonetto: beret,
cap or bonnet*
Tocchiglie:
Veil
Mazzoccola:*
ring-shaped
roll (padded) sometimes with false hair.
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Black Veluto
Bonetto based on Vecellio drawing. NEW 2009
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/DOCO/Cauls_diary.htm
Florentine HeadWrap/
Turban *UPDATE* 3/06:
Italian Hair Pages *UPDATED*
Hair Taping
Hair RollsL: How to
baretta - Stonehenge
competition
Pillbox cap
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Accessories -
Saccoccia -portable pocket
Borsetta - purse.
Guanti - gloves
Manichino - muff
Cinta - girdle.
also:
handkerchief, gloves (guanti), bracelets (manicelle), fan,
necklace (collana/ collanella - neckchain)*, girdle (cinta)
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Accessories, like the
clothing itself, was subject to fashion. Sometimes bracelets were in
vogue, sometimes not. The best way to accessorise your garb is to look
at contemporary portraits of the time you are interested in.
Manichino (Muff) -Diary
Accessories
of Florence :Saccoccia
Soccaccia - Diary of a portable
pocket/ pouch pouchworkshop.htm
Kat's
pouch diary & workshop.htm
- Accessories
of Florence :Fans
- Feather Fan diary
- Pictures in
portraits and extant examples - general Italian.
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Zimarra,
Roba , Manteo, Manto: turkish-style overgown, loose over
gown, long cloaks (with/without collars),
Mantellina:
little loose mantlet worn over womens gowns */ cloak
'for the neck' and 'for the shoulders'.
Cappotto:*
short Dutch
Cloak, short spanish coat (also hood or cowl)
Camiciola/
Camisciuola*
knitted jacket./
little waistcoat
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Kat's Zimarra
mid 1500's 20
Mantellino - shoulder
cape from Florence.
Kat's First
Mantellina 2006
Cappotto: Dutch
Cloak Diary. 2007
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Bibliography
- Alcega, Juan.The Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589
Facimile, Ruth Bean, Carlton, Bedford, 1979.
- Arnold Janet, Queen
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney, Leeds, 1988,
ISBN:0-901286-20-6
- Arnold, Janet Patterns
of Fashion, MacMillan, London, 1985. ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
- Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing
Renaissance Florence.: Families Fortunes & Clothing. John
Hopkins University Press. Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
- Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy 1200-1500,
Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5 .
- L'Abito della
Granduchessa; Vesti di corte di Madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa. Museo
Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, Pisa.
- Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Firenze 1540-1580.
Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
- Veccellio, Cesare. Vecellio's renaissance Costume Book.
Dover Publications. NY. 1977. ISBN: 0 48623441X
- Greg Lindahl's Renaissance
Dance website: Florio's 1598
Italian/English Dictionary: A WORLD
of Words
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio1598/florio_1598.pdf *
- Festive Attyre:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/
- Medici Archive
Project: www.medici.org/ (1/06)
- Archive
of Stitches from Extant Textiles.
www.bayrose.org
© K Carlisle. 2005-2009
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