Florence Files
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Though there is little or no pictorial evidence 1500-1560 of
Florentine women wearing cloaks or capes, Elenora's Gardaroba does
document that she wore many types of outdoor clothing. These included
12 short cloaks, 12 long cloaks, 25 capes and 5 waterproof felt capes,
6 Dutch cloaks. (La Mode a Fiorenze, p 149). There is record of several mantei made of wool or satin, commonly red
or crimon, slashed, braid edged, fringes and gold cords. (p150)
Ironically, the mantle that was the well documented and most commonly
worn form of cloak worn by Florentine women (to cover up), Eleanora
owned only one!
The mantellina was a short
cloak, often described as a cape for the shoulders or neck. It was
apparently similar to the 'gollar' worn by German women. Its main
function was warmth. It could be worn underneath or on top of longer
cloaks. La Mode a Fiorenze also surmises that the mantellina was worn in bed or in the home for protection against the cold.
Materials used for the mantellina were: wool, velvet or satin or
ermesino (tafetta). Prescious silks were usually preferred. The
mantellina was usually lined wtih ermine. The colour red was common, as
was gold embroidery and hungarian style frogs for closures.
Some pictorial examples of mantellina from other parts of Italy are:
The first is from Sienna (NB:
Eleanora was duchess of Sienna also.) Though not a proper mantellina,
the first example is not consistent with the georgeri (partlet) which
was tucked inside the dress at the time. It is possibly an
example of a working class mantellina used at home. The next
three examples are from elsewhere in Italy, but showing forms of
mantellina that could be worn for warmth.
Glossary:
Capotti = dutch cloaks
mantei = garments of certain size, structured (not loose) worn on the shoulders.
manteo = long cloak, circular or semi circular
mantellina = short cape for the neck or shoulder.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Bibliography:
Books:
- Kohler, Carl, A History of Costume, Dover
Publications, NY,1963, ISBN: 486-21030-8
- Konig, Eberhard, Masters of Italian Art:
Carravaggio, Konemann, Cologne, 1998,ISBN: 3-8290-0243-2
- Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, The
History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2
- Fossi, Gloria, Uffizi Gallery: The Official
Guide all of the works, Firenze Musei, Giunti, Florence, 2000 ISBN:
88-09-01487-1
- Thorton, Peter. The Italian Renaissance Interior 1400-1600. Harry N.
Adams INc, NY. 1991. ISBN: 0-8109-3459-0
- (Life in Tudor age)**
Web Sites:
Some Images from:
- Festive Attyre: Gallery.
homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/portfolio.htmlOlga's Gallery. www.abcgallery.com
- www.costumes.org/history/broderbund/boo/
- Web Gallery of Art:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/
- Orazio Centaro Art Images on the Web:
www.csupomona.edu/~plin/women/images/
- National Gallery, London.
http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk
- ACADEMY CARRARA Bergamo- The Other Venice.
www.accademiacarrara.bergamo.it/
- www.kressfoundation dot org
- web Gallery: http://www.wga.hu/
- http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/portfolio.html
- http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
© K Carlisle. 2006-2008
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