Florence Files:  Accessories in Early - Mid 16thC Florence
Recreating 16th Century Florentine and Tuscan  Clothing and Lifestyle




Florence Files

























Research and Recreations by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.

For accessories in Florence , as in Venice, pearls were very popular. After the mid 16th century, the accessories became more flamboyant and more in keeping with what many consider to be 16th century Italian.
Earrings
Pearls were common. According to La Mode a Firenze (the most recent published research in the area of Florentine clothing of the time), the Florentine did not commonly wear earrings. The lack of earrings in early 16th century (non-Medici) portraits seem to back this up. It was not until Eleanora arrived on the scene in the 1540's that 'pearl drop' earrings are seen more commonly. This can particularly be seen in portraits of her and her relatives. It is interesting to look at non-Medici portraits to get an idea of what 'the non-ruling classes' were wearing.
Earrings became increasingly decorated as the decades rolled by. Young Bia (illigitimate daughter of Cosimo) shows this with a pearl drop under a gem inlaid in a gold fixture. However, even into the late 1500's, there are many (non-Medici) portraits showing no earrings worn at all. Interestingly, there is one portrait that shows two hoop earrings in the one ear (Allori's Portrait of a Woman, 1560-70) The wearing, or lack of  it, could also possibly be due to either the social status of the sitter or the extent of religious observance; A monk called Savonarola came to prominence early in the 1500's, who denounced worldly goods, extravagences, non-religious paintings and self-adornment... among many things.

Below is a selection of portraits from 1520's onwards, with and without earrings.
Portrait of a Young woman 
1555-60, Bronzino's  Laura Battiferri (She wore the 'old fashion' of the 1540s) 155- 65 Allori's Portrait of a Woman , Uffizi
1555-57 Allori's Portrait, possibly of Maria Medici 1560-70 Florentine school Portrait of a Woman with a dog  1560-65, Bronzino's Portrait of Isabella dMedici
mid 1560s, Zucchi's Portrait of a  Woman , Fridsam collection 1575 85 Bronzino's Portrait of a Lady 
And with them...
1530s 40s  Florentine School, Portrait of a Woman Said to be Vittoria Colonna (Southerbys) 1540's Bronzino's Portrait of a Woman with a Boy 1542, Bronzino's Portrait o f Bia, illigitimate daughther of Cosimo d' Medici I
1545, Bronzino's Portrait of Eleanora and son. 1551, Bronzino's Maria d' Medici 1555-58 Allori's Maria d'Medici, (recently suggested to  possibly be Isabella d' Ccosimo)
1555-60 Florentine school Portrait of Lucrezia di Cosimo  1555-65 Florentine school Portrait of a woman  1558, Bronzino's Lucrezia d' medici 
Allori's Portrait of a Woman, 1560-70, showing 2 earrings in one ear. 1560, Bronzino's (?) Eleanora di Toledo 1560 SChool of  Bronzino Portrait of  Isabella d medici
1580-90 Allori's Portrait of a woman (Hermitage museum )

Some Close up of Earrings.
The earrings themselves seem to commonly have a hoop arrangement with varying 'dangly bits'. Again pearls seemed to be the most popular, whether round or teardrop or 'pear' in shape.  
The first portrait of Maria shows a gem in a gold fitting above the pearl. This is again seen in the 60-70's and in the 1560
 portrait of Eleanora di Toledo by Bronzino. There are only a few examples I have seen in portraits of this extent. Most seem ot be relatively simple in appearance.

This can be seen in five examples of earrings, left.
1551: Bronzino's Portrait of Maria d' Cosimo, Uffizi.
1555-58:  Allori's Portrait of Maria d'Cosimo (now considered to  possibly be  Isabella d cosimo)
1558: Bronzino's Portrait of  Lucrezia d'Medici
1560:  School of Bronzino's Portrait of Isabella d'Medici.
1560-70: Allori's  Portrait of a woman.



Bibliography: 
  • Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
  • Goldsword Gallery SFarmer: http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/
  • Web Gallery of Art: http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/
  • National Gallery, London. http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk 
  • Kress Foundation:  www.kressfoundation dot org
  • Christies Auction House: www.christies.com
  • Metopolitan Museum of New York. http://www.metmuseum.org/
  • Caitlin's Public Gallery.  http://picasaweb.google.com/SalviCait/CosutmeNellaPittura
  • Commission for Looted Art in Europe: http://www.lootedartcommission.com/lootedart_pressreleases.htm
  • Festive Attyre: http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/portfolio.html

Thanks to Mistress Oonagh for may discussions on earrings and info on Venice earrings.



© K Carlisle. , 2007-2008





Bibliography


All intellectual content, original photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2008.

zino's Portrait of Maria d' Cosimo, Uffizi.
1555-58:  Allori's Portrait of Maria d'Cosimo (now considered to  possibly be  Isabella d cosimo)
1558: Bronzino's Portrait of  Lucrezia d'Medici
1560:  School of Bronzino's Portrait of Isabella d'Medici.
1560-70: Allori's  Portrait of a woman.



Bibliography: 

Thanks to Mistress Oonagh for may discussions on earrings and info on Venice earrings.



© K Carlisle. , 2007-2008





Bibliography

All intellectual content, original photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2008.