Early 1500's Italian gloves
(a loose

My first attempt at gloves (in Coello's portrait of ) did not fit as well as I would like, with the cuff stitching being too tight, making them difficult ot put on. - Right. (I will most likely cut this cuff off and replace it with a larger, embroidered cuff - Elizabethan in style). Some time ago, I had purchased some lovely brown supple leather which had been earmarked for another pair of gloves. Now was the time to make another pair.
This time, I was looking at the Italian portraits from 1520's to 1540's (preferably Northern Italian or Florentine) being more within my usual time period and persona.
Below are some portraits I based my new gloves on:

My Documentation on gloves (general) is HERE, and my doco for these gloves for the Kingdom A&S comp is HERE. I was going to put this in Cockatrice Marie is already doing one.

1. Bartolomeo Veneto's Portrait of a Young Lady, 1520-1530
2. Holbein's Charles de Solier Lord of Morette, 1534-35
3. Paolo Cavazzola's Portrait of a Lady
4. Moretto da Brescia's portrait and
5. Durer's self portrait, 1498. (below L)

All show similarly styled gloves with a short trank, folded cuff. Most are reasonably plain, with pinking/cutting seen in both women's and men's gloves, which are similar in style.
The last example of Durer's glove show that though not as prevalent as in Elizabethan gloves, there is at least one example of overstitching in Italian gloves pre late 1500's.

To reduce bulk, I used overstitching (which Marie de Lyon's notes suggest is more common) and the streatley stitch she taught us at Festival Collegium , this year.

Making a pattern for gloves

the Streatley Stitch.

and below is how it looks inside.

Pattern for gloves

Pattern traced on back of leather


First place the thumb.
Do NOT pin the leather - it will leave marks!

The fiddly bit on the thumb...
Use contrasting thread to tack the pieces together.

Then, from the index finger moving outwards, stitch each finger individually. Only cut the finger you are currently doing or you will regret it!

I recommend stitching from the base of the fingers to the tip, so you can trim the fauchet if it is too long.
Stitch on the cuff before doing the last seam or life will be difficult.

I still have to decide on the final decoration. I am thinking of pinking the cuff and using the little leather bow, as in Holbein's Charles de Solier. which appears to hold the cuff in place.

The final seam to stitch is the outside along the pinky finger.

The final (L) glove.

the final glove (L) palm side.

Bibliography:
BOOKS

  • Hummel, Edith M You can make your own Gloves Fairchild Publishing Co. NY 194?/5?
  • Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney, Leeds, 1988 0 901286 20 6
  • Kohler, Carl A History of Costume Dover Public NY 486-21030-8
  • Rutt, Richard A History of Hand Knitting BT Batsford London 1987 ISBN: 1-931499-37-3
  •  

Scans were from the Masters of German Art series:

  • Buck, Stephanie. Hans Holbein. Konemann. Cologne, 1999.
  • Eichler, Anja-Fanziska. Albrecht Durer. Konemann. Cologne, 1999.


PERIODICALS.

  • Gloves by Marie de Lyon Lochac A&S suppliment Issue #2, Dec XXXII p28
  • and notes from her class at Lochac Festival Collegium, XXXVIII (2004).
  • Well in Hand article from "Handmade" magasine Winter 1990, p86

Websites:

  • Festive Attyre provided most of the portraits above: homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/portfolio.html
  • Web Gallery of Art: http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/

 

 

ENTER>

the Streatley Stitch.

and below is how it looks inside.

Pattern for gloves

Pattern traced on back of leather


First place the thumb.
Do NOT pin the leather - it will leave marks!

The fiddly bit on the thumb...
Use contrasting thread to tack the pieces together.

Then, from the index finger moving outwards, stitch each finger individually. Only cut the finger you are currently doing or you will regret it!

I recommend stitching from the base of the fingers to the tip, so you can trim the fauchet if it is too long.
Stitch on the cuff before doing the last seam or life will be difficult.

I still have to decide on the final decoration. I am thinking of pinking the cuff and using the little leather bow, as in Holbein's Charles de Solier. which appears to hold the cuff in place.

The final seam to stitch is the outside along the pinky finger.

The final (L) glove.

the final glove (L) palm side.

Bibliography:
BOOKS

Scans were from the Masters of German Art series:


PERIODICALS.

Websites: