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A handsewn gorgiera of golden silk with
pleating
Inspirations:
 
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First was the 1559
Bronzino's Portrait of a Lady,
now thought to be that of Guilia the illigitimate daughter of
Allessandro Medici.
The second portrait is Portrait
of a Woman found in the Uffizi, dated around 1550-65 and
possibly by Alessandro Allori.
Both are Florentine from a similar timeline.
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both have a gold giorgeria, of
varying complexity, with a
collar. Sumptuary laws, made by Cosimo, allowed for one gold
giorgeria (Moda a Firenze).
Pattern:
The pattern was based on
paintings/frescos of partlets. Mor research on
possible patterns and styles of giorgeria can be found here:
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Method and
Materials:
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This was made from a gold
and silk georgette, I had purchased a few years ago. I used thread
pulled from the material itself, for the handsewing.
Backstitch and running stitch were used to make the seams, using a flat
felled seam, so as to hide the edges and reduce fraying (which this
material does as soon as you look at it!)
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Decorations:
A close up (picture enhanced) of the giorgeria shows
a pleated 'strips' on a base of the same colour.
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An example of my mock up
for the trim pieces is on the left here.
The trim was made from a long strip which was spit-roll hemmed. It was
then folded into box pleats and sewn in two lines, with backstitch, to
keep in place. The centre folds were then gathered up with a whip
stitch, in the centre, and pleated.
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Examples of the trim being made:
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These lengths were then
sewn vertically onto the base giorgiera with running stitch.
Each
row finally has a fine gold chain sewn over the stitches, as in the
original inspiration, with running stitch. This very neatly hides a lot
of the stitching!
Right: you can see the chains. Next the shoulder strips were added
(these can just be seen on the portrait), followed by the collar.
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The finished item:
A
giorgiera of gold and silk, adorned with golden chains
  
Bibliography:
- Arnold, Janet Patterns
of Fashion 4, MacMillan, London, 2008. ISBN: 978-0-333-57082-1
- Chiarini, Marco (ed). The Official Guide: Pitti Palace -
all the museums, all the works. Sillabe s.r.l, Livorno. 2001. ISBN:
88-8347-047-9
- L'Abito della Granduchessa; Vesti di corte
di Madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa. Museo Nazionale di
Palazzo Reale, Pisa
- McCorquodale,
Charles. Bronzino: Agnolo Bronzino.
Chaucer Press. London. 2005. ISBN:1-904449-48-4
- Orsi Landini, Roberta
& Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a
Firenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN:
88-8304-867-9
- Rosenthal, Margaret F, Jones, Ann
Rosalind. Cesare Vecellio's Habiti
Antichi et Moderni: The Clothing of the Renaissance World.
Thames and Hudson, London. 2008. ISBN: 978-0-500-51426-9.
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(c)
K Carlisle, 2009
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