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Faldia/Underskirt:
11/05:
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This underskirt is made from one layer of cotton
drill (to keep the cost down and keeping it in
natural materials). I decided to cartridge pleat it
, to give more fullness to the skirt.
It will be worn under some of my existing gownes
and my
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planned new gowne (material on right).
The underskirt is based on patterns from Alcega
(farthingale), Patterns of Fashion and the
extant Eleanor of Toledo dress.
I am intending on sewing some braid to the hemline (got
cheaply on ebay recently).
Patterns:
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I adapted the pattern from
Eleanora d' Toledo from Janet Arnold's
Pattern of Fashion. and Alcega. Both of these
are contemporary, giving the most economical cut from the
material.
I wanted to give the skirt more fullness to try to keep the
silhouette wide on the bottom,
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without using a farthingale.
The hem width is over 6m; the amount of material gathered at
the waist is over 4 m. The total length (of 105cm wide
drill) used was 5.80m. There was no leftovers (or 'cabbage'
in Elizabethan terms).
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Inside of the cartridge pleats
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The outside of the pleats
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front: flattened to fit shaped bodices
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| Hand-sewn eyelets and lacing as the closure. |
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10/12/05:
It is finished! Another layer bites the dust! Here is the finished
underskirt (sans the trim to be added later). I wore it, with my
Medici underbodice and camicia, for the Innilgard Tavern feast this
year.
  
On the night of the feast:
Bibliography
- Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy 1200-1500,
Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5
- Piponnier, Francoise & Mane, Perrine Dress in the Middle
Ages, Yale University Press, New Haven, 1997. ISBN: 0-300-08691-1
- Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and
Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN:
0-85115-840-4
- Arnold, Janet Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney,
Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
- Arnold, Janet Patterns of Fashion, MacMillan, London, 1985.
ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
- Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.:
Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press.
Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
- Jones, Ann Rosalind & Stallybrass, Peter. Renaissance
Clothing and the Materials of Memory. Cambridge University Press.
2003. ISBN: 0-521-78663-0
- Oonagh's Own: http://oonagh.actewagl.net.au/
- goldsword.com
- elizabethgeek.com
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