(click above for a close up)
Triumph of Minerva fresco
(1470) by Cosimo Tura &
Francesco Cossa
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A good lady, on the Millinery list, posted pictures of a bust of
"A Lady" by Circle of Andrea del Verrocchio, (Far left and middle: Fig 1 & 2)
National Gallery of Art, Washington, Samuel H. Kress Collection.
c.1470. Elsewhere I found a portrait of baretta with an embroidered
veil (Left: Fig 3).
Looking at the sculpture, it appears that the hat is edged is
bound. There also appears to be lacing (horizontal) at the rear of
the cap. Fig 2 also shows a 'Y' shaped ribbon or wire keeping the hat
from falling forward/ down or hair taping? I suggest that this is
most probably a visible piece of hair taping which was popular in
Italy at this time (see Fig 4). The baretta could then be pinned to
the taped braid.
From the 'folds' in the sculpture, it looks like the hat is
'padded' and wrapped around the head (i.e. not shaped). The side
picture of the sculpture shows the baretta covers the ears and is far
back on the head at the top. The portrait (fig 3) gives a similar
shape to the hat, this time with a veil and gorgeous embroidery.
From these, I decided to on the following pattern:
Method:
I used slight padding, to give a similar appearance to the
sculpture, edged in bias cut material, with hand-made eyelets.
Two pieces of material were cut from left over cotton velveteen.
Padding was sandwiched between these. I made binding by cutting
(leftover) cotton material on the bias.(I could not find linen of the
correct colour). This was then ironed to give a crisper edge. The
binding was hand sewn on.
The eyelets were made by sewing button hole stitch with embroidery
floss. Leather was used as cording.
Final Version:
Images supplied from the Millinery list and by kind individuals.
Scan of Triumph of Minerva, from:
Staniland, Kay. Medieval Craftsman: Embroiders. University of
Toronto Press. 1997 reprint. ISBN: 0-8020-6915-0
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