The Florence Diaries: Mid 16th C Stays
 based on Extant burial stays of Eleanora d'Toledo
Recreated by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.






Inspiration:
I have made one version of Florentine stays, based on Patterns of FashionThey are very comfortable to wear but I find that they occasionally ride up above the underskirt. .... Then I  found some more documentation in La Moda a Firenze. Looking at more clear and larger pictures of the extant stays, this shows a different pattern to Patterns of Fashion, and one that should not ride up so much with practicle wear.
Below Left is the extant stays from La Moda. One trick I have found to see things more clearly is to lighten the picture and change to B&W. Right is the altered picture. From this, I have traced over the lines of the pattern pieces (blue). The white lines approximate the waistline. My previous stays had ended at the waistline. This 'new' version will be extended down lower, with the waist gusset.
Method:
To make a new pattern, I did the 'sacrificial t-shirt and masking tape wrap' method (left). This was ensure a very close fit. I marked the waistline and then lowered the front and back. Eleanora's stays were of velvet.  I used cotton canvas to interline, and lined the inside with linen. the interlining was herringbone stitched together for stability. The lining was hemmed stitched to the velvet.
Red was used to help in healing...

Pattern:
This was based on the information by Janet Arnold and mostly by the actual extant garment itself. .... I made this pattern last year and (foolishly) just cut it out. I had learnt more since then and should have known better. I redrew the pattern for the velvet covering, so that the straps extend up from the back of the bodice, with the should seam just to the back (and not on top of the shoulder)...
So, already I have planned a stays version 3, down the track.
I used 3 layers of cotton canvas which was sewn together to
reduce future movement and provide more stability.
The edges of the armholes, neckline and bottom were cut at the 'seam allowance'. The velvet covering was turned over and sewn down with running stitch. (left and below left).
The linen lining was hem stitched to the back.
I sewed 3-4 stitches (almost like a crows feet effect) at the corner of the neckline. This proved to be practicle as it held the lining and strengthened the corner.
Below L is the corset with the edges (not the front) turned over, without gussets. I turned the edges and lined the gusset in the same way as the main bodice. The gussets were whipstitched in place.

The front was then measured to be tight, the edge of the interlining clipped, the velvet wrapped over.
Modern sensibilities meant I used the lining to cover the hook and eyes, after they were hand stitched on.
The linen lining was then hem stitched.
Far Left is the original version of my stays, based on the pattern from Patterns of Fashion.
Left is the 'new version' which should be  less annoying and ride up less often. So are much more practicle.
More so, I am reasonably happy, with this latest attempt , at the flattness of the front. Time will tell how this 'holds up' with longer wear. I am hoping the stiffness of the canvas and that the interlining is stitched together, means that it will remain relatively stable.....

Stays I have made and how they work:

Velvet Stays based on extant burial stays of Eleanora d'Toledo (Janet Arnold, POF) Shape of imbusto with felt linings (4mm thick) and unboned felt stays Linen stays: Mark 2 with improved fitting at back Shape of imbusto with felt linings (6mm thick) and unboned linen stays underneath. 

Bibliography:
  • Arnold, Janet Patterns of Fashion, MacMillan, London, 1985. ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
  • Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
© K Carlisle. April,2007- May 2009






And for those who like LIVE JOURNALS... However be warned, I do not update regularly.

All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2009.

e: italic;">Left is the 'new version' which should be  less annoying and ride up less often. So are much more practicle.
More so, I am reasonably happy, with this latest attempt , at the flattness of the front. Time will tell how this 'holds up' with longer wear. I am hoping the stiffness of the canvas and that the interlining is stitched together, means that it will remain relatively stable.....
Stays I have made and how they work:

Velvet Stays based on extant burial stays of Eleanora d'Toledo (Janet Arnold, POF) Shape of imbusto with felt linings (4mm thick) and unboned felt stays Linen stays: Mark 2 with improved fitting at back Shape of imbusto with felt linings (6mm thick) and unboned linen stays underneath. 

Bibliography:
© K Carlisle. April,2007- May 2009






And for those who like LIVE JOURNALS... However be warned, I do not update regularly.

All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2009.