Kat's Velvet Rapier giorgeria

Inspirations:

After redesigning my rapier outfit, I needed a Tudor-style overpartlet. I had some drill and black velvet in the cupboard, so had the following punch tested (passing with no problem):

1 outer layer of decorative velvet (does not really count towards the layers, as there is no resistance to rapiers)
3 layers of drill
1 layer of linen lining.

The sides were made lower than normal, to allow for movement of the arms and to overlap the sottana (dress). The neckline of the sottana is approximately half way down the overpartlet. There is a 3 inch overlap at the button closure.
The button closure is made of a cord to form loops.

Pattern:

The pattern was loosely based on my other linen partlets, extended lower on the side seams, as discussed above. I made a toile to get the fit. Initially, the back was tighter. However, this gave too much upward movement with extreme arm movements. The slightly looser back, while not as asthetically pleasing, mimizes upward movement.

Pattern: Front. Collar front. Back (on fold) with back collar as part of the pattern.

Method and Materials:

I sewed the interlining layers together and overlapped the seams at the collar to mimimize bulk.
	The outer, decorative layer was then overlapped over the interlining layers. A running stitch was sewn around the edge to hold it in place. The lilac linen lining was folded to the seam allowance and pinned to the inside of the partlet. This was whipstitched to the rest of the partlet.

Buttons/Closures:

As I love making buttons, I made some silk-wrapped, wooden based buttons. The closure was a fingerknitted cord made into loops. This was placed on one side, above the overlapping placket. Some hook and eyes were also added to make the closure more secure, just incase a button fell off or became loose.

Below is the final partlet, firstly showing the inside linen lining and hook and eyes. Secondly, the outside of the partlet, showing the buttons and loops.

The finished item:

A giorgiera of black velvet.

Additional research on Giorgiera (partlets) and other Giorgiera diaries

Bibliography:

Arnold, Janet Patterns of Fashion 4, MacMillan, London, 2008. ISBN: 978-0-333-57082-1
Chiarini, Marco (ed). The Official Guide: Pitti Palace - all the museums, all the works. Sillabe s.r.l, Livorno. 2001. ISBN: 88-8347-047-9
L'Abito della Granduchessa; Vesti di corte di Madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa. Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, Pisa
McCorquodale, Charles. Bronzino: Agnolo Bronzino. Chaucer Press. London. 2005. ISBN:1-904449-48-4
Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
Rosenthal, Margaret F, Jones, Ann Rosalind. Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi et Moderni: The Clothing of the Renaissance World. Thames and Hudson, London. 2008. ISBN: 978-0-500-51426-9.