The Purple Files:  SF  Costume: SGU Uniforms.
Recreations by K. Carlisle, also known as La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia







Yes, I like Stargate and Stargate Universe ....
So we decided to make some more uniforms. We had the boots, the pants and now the jackets!
Here are the SGU uniforms for men and women:

Similarities: Collar shape/ front pocket flaps/ right sleeve pockets/ patch on left sleeve/ Name, airforce and rank patches/ epulets/ black studs on chest, sleeve pockets and epulets/ front double open end zipper/ side front seams/ pleats at back from upper back to waist, along the side back seams. (not visible on the above pics). Boots/ pants with side pockets

Differences: The female one is more closely fitted with a longer sleeve and shorter body. The male jacket has invisible (?) zips on the front seam.  Female pants are more form-fitting.  

Assumptions and easy ways out: the back sleeve seam, visible on the male jacket is the same on the female jacket/ front chest pockets appear to be fake (?)/ small shoulder pads/ dog tags have recessed printing like SG1 tags.

Ready bought items: pants/ boots/ dogtags/ patches
Material: After looking to try to match the little squares, I was told that Spotlight had it's 'ribstop' (their name for cotton ripstop) in stock. This is very similar in appearance to the material used on SGU.

Patterns:
I sort of cheated and used some known sized patterns then altered them.
Male:
Initial pattern used was Burda 8471. This was a basic shirt pattern with plain back and yoke and buttoned sleeves:
Changes Made:
  1. removed yoke, drafted epulets
  2. added a pocket flap/ drafted a sleeve pleated pocket and flaps
  3. repositioned the sleeve seam from underarm to back of arm. Removed cuff opening slit
  4. Drafted a stand up 'chinese' collar with square front
  5. Redrafted front closures to accommodate centre open zip
  6. Added side front and side back seams, 
  7. added a invisible zippered pockets on side front seams, below waist
  8. added a pleat in the back from shoulder to waist.
  9. added medium shoulder pads
  10. lined jacket

Female:
Initial pattern was recommended to me: Simplicity Threads 3628. This would also ensure that the female uniform would be similar in look to some other locals made. Uniforms always look better when they are, well... uniform!
Changes Made:
  1. added epulets, front pockets flaps and shoulder pleated pocket and flap.
  2. repositioned sleeve seam from underarm to back of arm, extended sleeve length and reshaped cuff area of sleeve.
  3. reshaped 'chinese collar' to square front
  4. added centre front open zip
  5. added small shoulder pads
  6. lined jacket
Reasoning for changes: Pictures of original costumes:
Sleeves:

There is a back sleeve seam visible in the first men's jacket.  Finally, the positioning of the patch.

Back pleats:

These appear to be on both male and female jackets. They start a little down the back seam (about where a yoke would finish) and are open down to the waist. They appear to fold towards the centre back. There appears to be overstitching down along the edge of teh pleat. (This makes it sit a lot flatter and stay in shape.)
Pockets:


The sleeve pocket with 'pleating' on the right sleeve on both the men's and women's jacket. You can also see the front packet flap in the second picture. It has a slight "V" shape to the bottom. The pocket (if they did have a functioning one in the costume) is inside the jacket and not visible, on the front. The third picture shows the 'invisible' pockets along the front seam of the men's jacket. This can be seen in some pics where he has his hand in the pocket. These pockets do not appear to be on the female jacket (which is more close fitting and would possibly not look as 'sleek'...)

Epulets: Can be seen on many of the pictures.


Seam Overstitching.
This can be seen on both men's and women's jackets with only minor differences... There appears to be a simple line of black stitching along side front, sideback seams, epulets and pockets and flaps. However, it you look closely at the mens jacket, the side front seam, below the pocket, is more similar in appearance to the unadorned sleeve seam. This also makes it much,much easier to add the invisible - zippered pockets on the front.  

Above, the female jacket has a side front seam. The seams appear to be turned toward the centre front. The overstitching is all the way down along the side front and side back seams. There does not appear to be overstitching on the sleeve seam, the armhold seams (above rigth), collar seam or side seams.

Over stitching is on the front pocket flap, epulet and zip and the collar as seen above.  (right you can see the armhole seam for the female). The name tape and airforce patch are sewn on with overstitching also.

To shoulder-pad or not to shoulder-pad...

I did in the end. The shoulder looks slightly squared off, going beyond the natural shoulder. If you look at the 'slightly bent' arm pics, there appears to be shaping to support shoulder pads. It also made the uniforms look more 'authoritative'.

Our Uniforms:
In progress:

1. sewing the back pleats. 2. sewing in the invisible zips

3. sewing the front pocket flaps. 4. sewing on the front pocket flaps.

5. sewing on the front zip 6. sewing the pocket and flap on the sleeve. 7.  sewing in the sleeves.
Patches were ordered:

The finished items... and on the night (ACG Quizznight).




Accessories:
I like to finish off my outfits with the little things...
Dog tags: These are SG1 dogtags. followed by pics of SGU ones. We ordered some via the local camping store. (ours at the end).


ID's
THese are based on ones found in these pictures. Supposedly original from the series. I recreated ours on the computer and then laminated them. The aligator clips were purchased.

and I got really anal and made up a car pass...








Florence Files

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(c). K.Carlisle, 2010.