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15/10/05:
Research
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Hood:
To comply with the Lochac rapier rules, the hood was
planned to be made by at least 4 layers of tightly woven linen. In
the final decision, it was made with four layers of cotton drill
(closer weave) and the linen layer was for decoration.
The hood was made to look more in keeping with a 16th
century woman. They were common in the late 16thC (England though)
worn by older women. It was often elaborately blackworked or decorated.
An extant example of a women's hood can be found in both Blackwork
and The Complete Guide to Needlework techniques. It
is embroidered in stem stitch, double coral stitch and speckling, edged
in bobbin lace.
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Bibliography:
- Gastelow, Mary. Blackwork. Dover Publications. New
York. 1976. ISBN: 0-486-40178-2
- Gastelow, Mary (ed). The Complete Guide to Needlework:
Techniques and Materials. Quantum Books. London. 2003. ISBN:
1-86160-722-9
- Egerton Castle, Schools and Masters of Fencing - from
the Middle Ages to the Eighteeenth Century. Dover Publications.
NY, reprint 2003. ISBN: 0-486-42826-5
- Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd,
Maney, Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
- Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy
1200-1500, Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5
- Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and
Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN:
0-85115-840-4
- Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.:
Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press.
Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
- Kohler, Carl, A History of Costume, Dover Publications,
NY,1963, ISBN: 486-21030-8
- Konig, Eberhard, Masters of Italian Art: Carravaggio,
Konemann, Cologne, 1998,ISBN: 3-8290-0243-2
- Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of
Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2
- Fennel Mazzoui, Maureen. The Italian Cotton Industry in the
Later Middles Ages 1100-1600, Cambridge University press, 1981. (thanks
to Galiana de Baiona).
- Levey, Santina & Payne, Patricia Le Pompe: Patterns for
Venetian Bobbin Lace, Ruth Bean, Bedford. 1983. ISBN: 0 903585 16 2
- Ricci, Elisa. Italian Lace Designs: 243 Classic Examples.
Dover, NY, 1993. ISBN: 0 486 27588 4 Lace, Bookking International.
Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
- Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. William Heinemann,
London. 1913 available on line:
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html
- Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN
available).
- Veccellio, Cesare. Vecellio's renaissance Costume Book.
Dover Publications. NY. 1977. ISBN: 0 48623441X
- Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of
Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2
Web Sites:
- V&A Museum website: http://images.vam.ac.uk
- Lochac Rapier Rules:
http://www.sca.org.au/rapier/rules.htm
- Archeological Sewing by Heather Rose Jones (2001)
www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html (5/04)
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