I have for some time, been eyeing off the Portrait of Maria di Medici by Alessandro Allori (1555-1557). I was lucky enough to obtain a detailed copy of this portrait (thanks Oonagh) giving much clearer details of the partlet. Following is the diary of the partlet. For initial research click HERE.
|
|
November,
2004. I have made a pattern for the partlet and cut it out of linen left over from my hand made camicia (I love stash!). Now to find time to sew it. |
|
I trimmed the seam, folded it over and sewed it down with 2-3 mm stitches. (See An exercise in Authenticity) Linen thread was used. |
L: the back of the seams. |
Jan 12th , 2005.
I have now sewn the ruff to the collar. Again all is handstitched. R:
is the back, sewing the stiching. Running stitch was sewn as top
stitching for the seams, to help strengthen them.
|
|
|
|
front of partlet so far |
back, showing topstitching and how the collar sits. |
The full partlet so far. ...
To finish, I need to embroider down the front opening, attatch the
lace, pearls and ties.
January 16th, 2005
Embroidery down the front of the partlet - I decided to use Holbein
Stitch so it would be passably reversible. Mostly it will be viewed
from the 'inside' so I embroidered it from this side. I used the
method explained in Practicle Skills in Bobbin Lace by Brigit
M. Cook.
|
|
|
Left: The lace attatched to the collar. Below L: Close up of the lace attatchment. Above R: To finish, I attatched some pearls in a similar pattern to the original portrait. I am still to learn how to attach gems, pearls and spangles to lace. |
|
|
A comparison. Left, the original portrait of Maria di Medici by Alessandro Allori (1555-1557), possibly the latest in period I prefer to go... When pinned to a high-necked collar, the collar will sit
beautifully! |
Finally: |
What now? The next step is the high necked doublet.
Bibliography
Various contemporary paintings.