Overdress:
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I favour the one-piece over dress rather than a two piece. (THE THINKING BEHIND THIS) Other examples of a one piece overdress can be found. I will be using a doublet pattern, from Alcega and attatching a skirt. I will need to make a toile, as I have not got an up-to-date doublet pattern. |
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I have a 'man-made' material with a very similar colour and texture to the silk in the portrait. I am hoping I have enough. I bought 5 m on sale ($4/m). I wish now I had bought more! I cannot afford silk at the moment. With 5m, I can probably just get the doublet bodice, skirt and small sleeves out of it, especially as I intend on using Alcega's pattern layouts as I did for my 1516 dress. This saved me 1.5 m on my usual material layout! As there is no design on this material, there will be no problems with the modernity of pattern matching. |
Sleeves for the
over-dress: Problem: |
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I have some braid (5m) of that on the top right, but I do
not think it is suitable (or enough!). Other braid, in my
stash, possibly more suitable in style can be seen on the
lower right. I cannot remember how much I have of this one
though. This dress really needs some form of braid.
Argh! |
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I draped a toile, as seen above, based on Eleanor d' Toledo's extant burial dress and patterns in Alcega's pattern book. This can be seen to the right where the pattern pieces are pinned to the overdress material. At the very top (centrally) is the back collar. To the left and right top, are the main pieces of the doublet-style dress. Next, are 5 of the six panes (the other is between the armholes of the doublet pieces) for the sleeves. Further down is the undersleeve to support the panes and fake chemise puffs. Finally, at the bottom, is the sleeve cuff. Skirt: The main difference between the pattern left and the final pattern for this overdress is the front opening and the added portion at the fronts to give more 'bulk' and extra pleats near the front. (below right) |
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Following are photos from the construction stage of the
overdress:
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The lining (seen here in checking the toile sizing) was handstitched with blindstitching to the body of the dress. |
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I used sissal cord for the 'boning' of the collar as I wanted it too be softer. I will investigate padding of collars next time. (I had only one week before Midwinter at this stage |
I did not use bagging for this. Evidence in POF shows the lining is stitched onto the outer material. |
and the final body of the dress coming together.(with the kirtle seen under here). |
The sleeve is made up, on the base, with fake puffs of camicia and panes over it. The braid was sewn (overcast stitch). The sleeves were sewn to the doublet body. |
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The seams were sewn, then flat-felled with running handsewn running stitch overstitching.
Preparing to hem, with a slight train. (above) The collar was stab-stitched along the edge to hold the thickness. (top right) Finally, making the girdle and checking the length. (bottom right). |
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The final outfit... on the way to the ball... |
Bibliography