Florence Files
|
Though specifically Elizabethan, this serves to show the many,
many layers of Renaissance Dressing. From Queen Elizabeth’s
Wardrobe Unlock’d (p 111), in an account by Peter Erondell, on
the dressing of Lady Ri-Mellaine:
Call my Taylor to bring my gowne, ........ Shall I hve no
Vardingale?... Do you not see that I want my buske" What has become
of the buske-poynt? ....... The final touches are by neckwear, purse,
clean handkerchief, gloves (it is too warm for a muff), mask, fan,
‘chayne of pearls’, and girdle with these items in a case hanging
from it: scissors, pincers, pen-knife, a knife to close letters,
bodkin, ear-picker, and seal. Then as the ruff is too soiled, a
rebato of cutworke edged .
Calzoni:
(Drawers or breeches)
|
Extant examples of women's drawers can be found in
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd . A History of
Underclothes has an Italian extant example. Both appear
to be from the late 16th century. Pictorial representations
such as Pierto Bertelli's Cortigiana Veneza (Venetian
courtesan) can be found in Diversarum Nationum Habitus ,
1591 (V&A Museum) & 1594-1596 ( Banca dati
Biblioteca Riccardiana ). From Hispanic Costuming 1480-1520
*, drawers were mentioned in the 1479 inventory of Duchess
of Alburqurque (linen with white silk cords). Queen Juana
had drawers lined with fur. Yellow drawers of satin, trimmed
with strips of cloth of silver belonged to the Empress.
Drawers were used in Spain before England or France.
Lucrezia Borgia made drawers fashionable in Italy (Ferarra).
It cannot be assumed that all Italian women wore drawers.
One would have to look to individual inventories.Commonly
they could be made of linen
The Guardaroba of Eleanora d' Toledo records a pair of
crimson tafetta breeches.
Kat's Drawers.htm
|
Camicia -
(chemise)
|
What Lies Beneath- Florence Underpinnings of the 16thC.
Extant Underpinnings of
Florence and Tuscany examples
Florence
underpinnings - 1540 getting dressed
Handmade
Linen Camicia
Pomegranite Camicia
Florentine camicia based on extant example in Prato (Tuscany)
|
Spallini:
Nets covering shoulders.
Georgiera:
Partlet -
|
Maria
Medici partlet
Kat's Partlet.htm
16thC
Florentine Partlet Documentation
(sewing/embroidery)
|
Calze:
stockings
Pianelle:
(night) slippers
Pantosole: *
slippers, chopines,
Calandrelli - wooden Pattens
Zoccoli
wooden platform shoes (made from zocco - block of wood)*
and Chopines:
Cinta/
girdle or
Cintolini*/Cinte de gamba:
garters or little girdles*/ garters
|
Keeping
Yer Legges Warme
Kat's New
Stockings - new pattern
Calandrelli (Pattens) 15thC.
Kat's
Zoccoli.htm
|
Stays:
Corset / breast taping,
Fasce da stomaco:
stomach band -
|
What Lies Beneath- Florence Underpinnings of the 16thC.
Maria
d'Medici underbodies.htm
Mid 16thC Stays based on Extant Burial Stays
|
Sontanna:
Petticoats, later worn as gown
Falda:
skirt & Underskirts
|
Kat's
Underskirt
|
Gamurra/ Sottana
(underdress or petticoat, sometimes worn as gown)
Veste:
gown with sleeves (decorated) worn over petticoat or skirts.
|
Eleanor d' Toledo, *2005
Maria's
Toile for Gamurra *2005
Linen Sottana with Period Contruction Techniques *2006
Pale Sottana - period construction techniques*2007
Florentine 1540-1555 remade*2007
Maria d'Cosimo
(Medici) Veste/ overgown. *2005
|
Baragoni & Maniche
puff sleeves and sleeves (general)
Colletto:
(leather)* jerkin
Guibbone
Doublet
|
Florentine Sleeves 1500-1550
**
Kat's Mid 16thC Florentine Guibone *2007
|
Makeup
|
|
Neckwear - pearls
|
|
Scuffia, Balzo
cawl
Headwear - hairtaping with ribbons (redine)
Bonetto:
beret, cap or bonnet*
Tocchiglie:
Veil
Mazzoccola:*
ring-shaped roll (padded) sometimes with false hair.
|
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/DOCO/Cauls_diary.htm
Florentine HeadWrap/ Turban *UPDATE* 3/06:
Italian
Hair Pages *UPDATED*
Hair
Taping
Hair RollsL: How to
baretta -
Stonehenge competition
Pillbox cap
|
Accessories -
Soccaccia -portable pocket
Guanti - gloves
Borsetta - purse.
Manichino - muff
Cinta - girdle.
|
portable pocket (tasca), purse (borsetta), handkerchief,
gloves (guanti), bracelets (manicelle), muff (manichino), fan, necklace (collana/ collanella - neckchain)*,
girdle (cinta) and girdle accessories. Accessories, like the
clothing itself, was subject to fashion. Sometimes bracelets
were in vogue, sometimes not. The best way to accessorise
your garb is to look at contemporary portraits of the time
you are interested in.
-
pouchworkshop.htm
&
Kat's
pouch diary & workshop.htm
- Soccaccia - portable pocket/ pouch *NEW 2007*
- Girdle of Maria d' Medici 2005
fans: Pictures in portraits and extant examples - general Italian.
- Feather Fan diary NEW 11/2007*
- Gloves - Italian
early 1500's and DOCO
- Accessories: Earrings
NEW 8/07
|
Zimarra, Roba , Manteo,Manto:
turkish-style overgown, loose over gown, long cloaks
(with/without collars),
Mantellina :
little loose mantlet worn over womens gowns */ cloak 'for the neck' and 'for the shoulders'.
Cappotto:*
short Dutch Cloak, short spanish coat (also hood or cowl)
Camiciola/ Camisciuola*
knitted jacket./ little waistcoat
|
Kat's Zimarra mid 1500's 2006
Mantellino - shoulder cape from Florence.
Kat's First Mantellina 2006
Cappotto: Dutch Cloak Diary. 2007
|
Bibliography
- Alcega, Juan.The Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589 Facimile, Ruth Bean, Carlton,
Bedford, 1979.
- Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney,
Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
- Arnold, Janet Patterns of Fashion, MacMillan, London, 1985. ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
- Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.:
Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press.
Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
- Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy 1200-1500,
Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5 .
- L'Abito della Granduchessa; Vesti di corte di Madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa. Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, Pisa.
- Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Firenze
1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
- Veccellio, Cesare. Vecellio's renaissance Costume Book. Dover
Publications. NY. 1977. ISBN: 0 48623441X
- Greg Lindahl's Renaissance Dance website: Florio's 1598
Italian/English Dictionary: A WORLD of Words
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio1598/florio_1598.pdf *
- Festive Attyre: http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/
- Medici Archive Project: www.medici.org/ (1/06)
- Archive of Stitches from Extant
Textiles.
www.bayrose.org
© K Carlisle. 2005-2008
|
|