Florence Files
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Glossary of some useful
terms and Italian translations, compiled by La Signora Onorata Katerina da
Brescia from various
sources.
Clothing:
- alla dogalina - sleeve in style of
the doge, long and wide all the way down.
- Amarante - amethyst purple
- Armschythe: armhole curve in the
imbusto pattern.
- bambagia- linen or cotten
interfacing material
- Baragoni - puffy top of sleeve
- Borsetta/ borsa - pouch or purse
- Calandrelli - wooden platform shoes.
- Calze: stockings
- Camicia - chemise
- Capellina - small close fitting cap
for female
- Capello - generic word for hat
- Capotto - dutch cloak
- Clockes - area of stocking covering
the ankle bone, inside and outside on each leg. Could be decorated and
embroidered, either on inside and outside or just the outside of the leg.
- Convercie - shoulder
cape/hankerchief
- Damaschino- damask
- Ell - 1 1/4 yds or metres.
- Extant - actual surviving items
originally made at the time in question
- Faldaglia - skirts
- gamurra - dress
- gingerline - reddish-purple
- Gheroni - gussets
- Gorgiera - partlet - the fine silk or linen fazzoletti were tucked into or
worn over the lower necklines of their dresses
- Gorgiere (e colletti) - partlets
- gozzo - long sleeve
- Grembiali - aprons
- guanti- gloves
- Imbusto
- bodice/ body of the sottana, covering the chest
and shoulders.
- Chevron - for of twill weave with
diagonal lines reversed (gives ‘V’ pattern)
- Cisele Velvet - a velvet with the
pattern made in cut and uncut loops with a higer profile than uncut velvet.
- Cotten - cotton
- Crewell- think worsted lyarn of 2
threads used for embroidery and knitting.
- Damask/ Damischino - has a shiny
pattern on opaque background, all in one colour and reversable. It was
originally made of silk and can be made of linen.
- Ermisino - tafetta
- Fustian-a-napes - Naples fustian
made of cotten, or flax with wool
- Holland - linen fabric originally
made in Holland. Later used as a generic term for linen cloth ranging from fine
quality used for shirts for medium weight (linings) to coarser weight used for
bed linen and sheets.
- Jersey - type of thread - wool or
cotton or silk? (depending on the source used) used for knitting or type of
knitting.
- Kersey - thin wook of narrow width
possibly originally made in Keysey, Suffolk.
- Lawne - fine delicate linen for
making smocks, sleeves and ruffs.
- Lampas - a type of jacquard material
with the raised pattern bound in tabby or twill. It can be 'two tone' or in many
colours.
- Lockeram - linen cloth of various
weights used for under sleeves and household linen (QEWU)
- Rensa - fine linen used for the best
Italian linens
- Sarcenet - thin silk taffetta often used for lining.
- tela - linen
- Twill - material which is woven to
give a surface of diagonal parallel ridges.
- Vellat -VELVET - material made from
a pile weave wtih an extra warp yarn, warp pile weave, with raised loops. It can
be made of silk, cotton.
- Worsted - a smooth thread spun from
wool fibres, laid parallel by
combing.
Bibliography:
- All About Fabrics - Dictionary. http://allaboutfabrics.com
- Agnes Geijer ,A history of textile art, London. Pasold Research Fund
in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet. Totowa, N.J. : distributed by Biblio
Distribution Center, 1979
- Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450,
Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN: 0-85115-840-4
- Fennell Mazzaoui, Maureen. Italian Cotton
Industry in the Later Middle Ages 1100-1600, Cambridge University Press.
Cambridge, 1981. ISBN: 0521 230950
- Florio's World of Words (Italian-English
dictionary, 1598.
http://www.pbm.com/%7Elindahl/florio1598/florio_1598.pdf
- Jones, Ann Rosalind & Stallybrass, Peter. Renaissance Clothing and the
Materials of Memory. Cambridge University Press. 2003. ISBN: 0-521-78663-0
- Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna.
La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN:
88-8304-867-9
- The Art of Textiles by Alberto Tagliabue
http://www.thais.it/arti_minori/tessuto/italiano/Italiano2.htm
- The Art of Textiles - definitions:
http://www.thais.it/arti_minori/tessuto/glossario_uk.htm
© K Carlisle. ,
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