1. This is the extant burial
dress of Eleanora d' Toledo, who died in 1562. It can be found in
Galleria del Costume. The skirt shape is made by using gussets at the
side front and back. It is of white satin with a band of brown cut
velvet trim with gold and silver.
2. the "Red Dress of Pisa", 1560
(?), found on a wooden effigy at San Matteo. It is found at the
Palazzo Reale di Pisa. (Museum Nazionale).
The dress is of red velvet, with gold couched trim.
The restoration of the dress is discussed in
L'Abito della Granduchessa.
3. This partial Tuscan extant (worn in the home and/or non-noble
class) Mid-16th C sottana beloning to a Pisan woman.
Palazzo Reale di Pisa.
It is made of natural linen and dark green wool weft, with the imbusto
lining in natural linen, and the inner hem 'strip' is of blue linen..
The skirt is made of rectangular panels.
There is no
visible trim, however there is a remnant of lace near the hemline. The
weave creates diamond pattens in white on a green background. The waist
is not peaked, but gently rounded. (photos 3a,3b taken at the
Laboratorio Centre Restauri Tesseli, Pisa
during the Florence Costume Colloquium, 2008)
(
Photos: © K. Carlisle. An article discussing these dresses
will be webbed in the future.)
4.
4.Early 17th century Tuscan dress in cut
velvet of bright green. This is just outside my area of interest but is
one of the few extant dresses available. Found at
Laboratorio Centre Restauri
Tesseli and has similar sewing and construction techniques at
the other two dresses (2 and 3) from mid 16th century.
Photos taken at the
Laboratorio Centre Restauri Tesseli, Pisa
during the Florence Costume Colloquium, 2008.
(Photo: © K. Carlisle. )
Other Clothing:
5.
5.
Camiciola: Knitted jacket in red and
gold silk. (first quarte of 17th C). Museo Stibbert, Florence. There is
such items recorded in Eleanora d'Toledo's guardaroba (
La Moda a Firenze) and is popular
in the second half of the 16thC. This item is discussed more in
The History of Knitting.
Bibliography:
- Ajmar-Wollheim, Marta & Dennis, Flora (ed). At Home in Renaissance Italy.
V&A Publications London, 2006. ISBN: 10 1 85177 488 2.
- Arnold, Janet Patterns
of Fashion, MacMillan, London, 1985. ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
- L'Abito della
Granduchessa; Vesti di corte di Madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa. Museo
Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, Pisa. 2000.
- Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580.
Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
- Photos of wool/linen sottana and early 17thC sottana taken
at Costume Colloquium, Florence, 2008. © K. Carlisle If you wish to
use them, please contact me.