Dafydd Rapier Garb

Purple

4-11th February, 2005.
PANTS/ TREWS:
With thinking further on the doublet, I actually decided to start the trousers first. The doublet is to be laced into the trousers, as is shown in Patterns fo Fashion. I thought it would be much easier to make the trousers, with lacing holes and then match up the doublet to fit.

The style of trousers chosen was the 'puffy' Elizabethan - almost plunderhosen type. This would allow for movement when fighting - and look speccy! I have made a very simple version of these before and Dafydd finds them quite comfortable.
I have also seriously entertained the idea of putting padding in the trousers to give the puffy look. This will also provide more padding for fighting and also provide a more period silhouette. In the end, I decided against it, as it could get heavy when rapier fighting. The drill, itself, seems to sit quite well for now.

I decided against a codpiece, going for a later style with buttons. While my Dafydd was game to wear a codpiece (which I stipulated would be ornate if done), a more streamlined look, and safer (less overlaps), is a simple button overlap which would be more secure and easier to make to specified rules (maybe next time!)

I used Patterns of Fashion mainly for this. There are not only portraits, but photographs of extant examples, and Janet Arnold's interpretation of the patterns. Some modifications were required as the trousers were to be used for SCA Rapier and must abide by the rules.

the groin area must have the equivalent of 4 layers of trigger cloth - 2 layers are provided by the double-layer linen shirt (SHIRT) and by 2 layers of thick cotton drill (more stash material).
the legs must have equivalent of 1 layer (hose)
there should be an overlap were any join may allow the rapier to go

Below are pictures of the Pattern pieces I used. These are similar to those found in Patterns of Fashion. I added a 'fly' overlap to allow for the Lochac Rapier armour requirements. I also extended the waistband 3 inches so that, if the points became loose, there would still be enough overlap to allow for play and not having to stop to do them up (Dafydd would not be happy!)

The construction lines for the overpants can be seen here:

The button overlap this has been reinforced by a cotton canvas to give support to the buttonholes.

the SCA legal overlap

Basic construction is of a narrow pair of foundation pants (like venetians) to give something for the puffy over pants 'to hang onto'. In general, it appears that material loom widths were much narrower in Elizabethan times than in our modern times. This is confirmed in pattern pieces drawn out in Patterns of Fashion, with several pieces of material sewn together to give the full width of material required for the overpants. To simulate this, I cut the cotton drill in half lengthways giving a simulated loom width of 56 cm. The actual seam placings can be seen above.

In Patterns of Fashion, the 'foundation pants' did not actually have a waistband, but continued as a lining to be blind - stitched to the top of the waistband (much like linings in doublets). I have made mine to resemble this. I used cotton canvas to give support to the waistband (overpants) as I handmade the eyelets to tie to the doublet with points.

OUTSIDE:

INSIDE:

EYELETS:

To prevent bulk, I edged the buttonhole piece, SCA overlap and waistband with bias. I used white, as Dafydd's colours are black, purple and white. I liked the contrast. So did Elizabethans! All bias was hand sewn on.
I intend on handsewing the eyelets and buttonholes (argh!)

16th Feb, 2005.
The buttons were made from cord over a wooden base. I discovered how to do this when making Dafydd's white linen underdoublet. I find it not only looks good (you can match colours), but less expensive than buying modern buttons and, of course, of a more period construction. The only downside, is the time taken to make them. (but I do them while wathcing documentaries and movies - making the time more constructive).
The Renaissance Tailor website has instructions on making these types of buttons.
The buttons will be sewn on the right edge of the 'fly'. This is consistently seen in button attatchments from medieval to Elizabethan (Dress Accessories to Patterns of Fashion). This also would be a stronger attatcment point, with the edge stitching of the bias etc, than on one or two layers of material only (say 2cm in from the edge).

The buttons I have previously made by weaving thread over a wooden base.

Attatching the buttons to the edge of the 'fly'.

Above: the finished front!
Right & Far right: the finished pants (excuse the T-shirt) - front and back.

They will eventually be tied with points to the rapier doublet.

The pants in action! at the Innilgard Baronial Rapier Championship held on 20th February.

This is with Dafydd's old rapier doublet, so now he will have a few options for rapier armour when I get the new doublet done.

Now onto the doublet.

CLICK HERE:

Bibliography:

Egerton Castle, Schools and Masters of Fencing - from the Middle Ages to the Eighteeenth Century. Dover Publications. NY, reprint 2003. ISBN: 0-486-42826-5
Lochac Rapier Rules:
Web Gallery of Art: http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/
Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney, Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
Arnold Janet, Patterns of Fahsion, MacMillan, London, 1985. ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
Juan Alcega's Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589 Facimile, Ruth Bean, Carlton, Bedford, 1979.
The Milanese Tailor's Handbook http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/
Tudor & Elizabethan Portraits: http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Costumes.htm
"How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
Suggested Yardages for Elizabethan Garments by Drae Leed. http://costume.dm.net/yardages.html# (29/5/03)
Renaissance Tailor (making buttons) : http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm
All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.

If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

2005

from cord over a wooden base. I discovered how to do this when making Dafydd's white linen underdoublet. I find it not only looks good (you can match colours), but less expensive than buying modern buttons and, of course, of a more period construction. The only downside, is the time taken to make them. (but I do them while wathcing documentaries and movies - making the time more constructive).
The Renaissance Tailor website has instructions on making these types of buttons.
The buttons will be sewn on the right edge of the 'fly'. This is consistently seen in button attatchments from medieval to Elizabethan (Dress Accessories to Patterns of Fashion). This also would be a stronger attatcment point, with the edge stitching of the bias etc, than on one or two layers of material only (say 2cm in from the edge).