The Purple Files: Documentation: Couching
recreated by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia 






My Adventures in Couching.

Dafydd needed something to go with his purple velvet Elizabethan...at the time, we had not been going out long. I was just beginning to get the craving to decorate my garb which, until now, had been relatively plain or relied on patterned material for its decoration. I was flipping through Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (1560-1530) and saw a wonderful, but still basically simple cloak, c 1600. This was it, some researching on couching on the internet and some help from local embroiders got me hooked. It took me the best part of 14 months - off and on- to finish the cloak; I had to do it when Dafydd was not visiting....

Finally it was done and I presented it to him as a gift. He was stunned. Successful surprise, I think.

Since then, I have done a class on couching at our annual Innilgard Winter A&S Collegium, have written an article for MOAS newsletter.

I entered the cloak in a principality A&S comp. Below is the documentation.

Couching: A Simple way to decorate by Lady Katerina da Brescia.

Notes from the Innilgard Winter Collegium, XXXVII (2002)

Being an impatient person at heart, I learnt to sew in preference to knitting, as a child; it was much faster. So when faced with a method of decoration for my garb, I decided that embroidery was too slow. It was then I discovered couching.

Couching is a method of laying down threads or cord, and sewing it in place - usually for decorative purposes. It was the best way to use expensive materials to good value as most, or all, of the cord is visible.

It can be used for almost anytime period in the SCA. In 1250-1350 underside couching was more common but, by the middle of the 14th century, surface couching had taken over.

Underside couching involves taking the couching ribbon (often metallic strips, silk or linen cord) through the material, at stages, and sewing it on the underside (wrong side) of the material. Thus making the anchoring stitches invisible. This is technically more accurate for earlier garb. (If you want to be that accurate) I prefer surface couching as it is easier and I find that it is less likely to damage the material of your garb or project ( I also do more Renaissance garb). Surface couching is the best way to lay thick threads or elaborate cording which is difficult to pass through material.

First:
Some projects/garb are best couched before any sewing is done. Others, such as doublets are best done after the outside layer is sewn, but before the lining is sewn to it. The lining will hide the end bits inside (more on this later).

Next:
The most difficult part of couching is transferring a pattern to your material as you don't really want to draw on the outside (front side) of the material; this is very difficult when working with velvet. There are several methods to do this:

1. Couch freehand without a pattern on the actual material. I would only recommend this if you are experienced in couching, embroidery or artistic. It is also easier if your project is small.

2. Draw on the underside (wrong side) and carefully try to match this to the front stitching. This is very fiddly.

3. Draw the pattern on thin tissue paper. Sew over this and remove at the end of the project. This is a quick method but can damage stitching, when removing the paper, and can make the final decoration 'loose'.

4. Use either method 2 or 3 then tack-stitch, in a contrasting thread, over the outline of the pattern. (remove paper if you used method 3). Lay cord along the stitched pattern and remove tack-stitching as you go. I use this. Though it is time consuming (yes, I know I said I was impatient), it won't rub off and you are less likely to damage the decorative cord or material than removing a paper pattern. Also, as I often do bits of work, then leave it for a considerable time while I finish a more urgent project, it is less likely to cause staining of the material (if ink was used on the paper pattern, or to rub off as I work. In the end, for me, it saves me time.

Finally:
Couching is so simple- you can't lose your count and can always see where you are up to! I choose a finer, matching coloured thread that will not be obvious against the couching cord. An embroidery hoop is a good idea, particularly if working on velvet or work with a loose weave that may be distorted out of shape. Stretch the fabric so it is even in the hoop. Simply choose a decorative cord, lay it along the pattern, on the outside of the garb so it can be seen. With you matching thread, start on the back (wrong side) of your work.

To start with, the thicker, couching cord or ribbon is pulled through to the inside (wrong side) of your material or garb, in the place where your pattern starts, to the front. This can be done with a large needle or crochet hook. (I use a large needle). It is then sewn in place with the thinner thread.

Pass the thinner thread through to the front and make a simple, neat stitch over the couching cord and back to the underside, in approximately the same spot the thread came through from the back (follow me?). Work along the couching thread with small, even stitches, a few millimeters apart (the exact spacing will depend on the complexity of the pattern and what you want it to look like) until you have finished the design.

To finish, pull the thick couching cord back through to the underside. When cutting the cord, leave a generous amount extra so it is less likely to pull through to the front. Stitch the end to hold it in place, with the thinner thread. If the cord is likely to unravel, I usually tie a knot in it as well. Be warned though, a knot will be obvious with reasonably thick cord or thinner materials. Another method is recommended in this case.

Really, couching is so simple that even an impatient person, such as myself, can be motivated to decorate my garb! If you can do simple hand-stitching (and are neat) you can couch!!! (And no couching is not named for the fact that you can do it while sitting

on your couch in front of the TV. I believe it is from the French, coucher, meaning to lay)

For examples of really nice Anglo-saxon techniques and different forms of couching, try:

http;//www.regia.org/emboid.html

and take a good look at the Bayeux tapestry some time, it is worked in laid and couched stitching of wool, on linen.

(c). 2002

 










And for those who like LIVE JOURNALS... However be warned, I do not update regularly.
All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2008.

d.

Pass the thinner thread through to the front and make a simple, neat stitch over the couching cord and back to the underside, in approximately the same spot the thread came through from the back (follow me?). Work along the couching thread with small, even stitches, a few millimeters apart (the exact spacing will depend on the complexity of the pattern and what you want it to look like) until you have finished the design.

To finish, pull the thick couching cord back through to the underside. When cutting the cord, leave a generous amount extra so it is less likely to pull through to the front. Stitch the end to hold it in place, with the thinner thread. If the cord is likely to unravel, I usually tie a knot in it as well. Be warned though, a knot will be obvious with reasonably thick cord or thinner materials. Another method is recommended in this case.

Really, couching is so simple that even an impatient person, such as myself, can be motivated to decorate my garb! If you can do simple hand-stitching (and are neat) you can couch!!! (And no couching is not named for the fact that you can do it while sitting

on your couch in front of the TV. I believe it is from the French, coucher, meaning to lay)

For examples of really nice Anglo-saxon techniques and different forms of couching, try:

http;//www.regia.org/emboid.html

and take a good look at the Bayeux tapestry some time, it is worked in laid and couched stitching of wool, on linen.

(c). 2002

 










And for those who like LIVE JOURNALS... However be warned, I do not update regularly.
All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2008.